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 LETTER OF THE MONTH

Dear Compass Readers,

There is bad news and good news in Venezuela.

Venezuela took a couple of bad hits recently as far as cruiser crime is concerned. Both occurred in the eastern offshore islands.

The first armed attack on a yacht ever documented in Islas Los Testigos occurred on January 26th, 2008. One of the victims was shot and rushed to Isla Margarita for emergency treatment. The bad guys got away.

Also in January, the sixth armed yacht robbery to our knowledge in Porlamar, Isla Margarita, since 2003 had the American-flagged Nomad as victim. With a shotgun and pistols in their faces the boat’s two-person crew was robbed. A local businessman heard the emergency call on VHF and telephoned the police. The police never showed up. The bad guys got away.

Detailed reports of these two incidents are posted on the website www.noonsite.com/Members/doina/R2008-03-20-2.

It is not all bad news in Venezuela, however. The Venezuelan government has simplified and centralized the bureaucracy for visiting cruisers. It is no longer necessary for private yachts to use so-called agents to clear in or out.

In Porlamar, the INEA office (Port Captain) is conveniently located in front of the Guardia Nacional station. This office has been expanded to include both Immigration and Customs. The officials now buy the required stamps for you at the local banks so that it is no longer necessary for you to do that yourself. It is now quick, one-stop shopping with no need to go elsewhere.

Señor José Casal is the current Immigration official on duty there and he speaks good English. Señor Manuel Guerra, the Customs official, also speaks good English. The Port Captain, Señor Arquemedes Bolivar and his secretary both speak enough English to get the job done. If they spoke no English at all there would still be no problem as they have done the paperwork hundreds and hundreds of times and know just what to do. The bottom line is that language is not a problem getting your paperwork done. The paperwork is professionally done, all on computer. Everyone is friendly, efficient and could not be more helpful.
There has just been an increase in the price of the required stamps. The stamp prices are linked to the rate of inflation.

These are the new service rates:


INTERNATIONAL CHECK IN:

Immigration:    No Charge
Customs:        69 BsF *
Port Captain:    139 BsF
INTERNATIONAL CHECK OUT:
Immigration:    No Charge
Customs:        69 BsF
Port Captain:    1 BsF

As indicated in Ms. Gabriele Drucker’s January 2008 letter in Compass there is still some disagreement on the need to do national check-ins and national check-outs. In any case, the good news is that there is no charge for either at the Porlamar INEA office.
There is more good news. Jackie’s Restaurant, the longtime base of so many cruisers visiting Porlamar, is again open for lunch, dinner and the ever-popular Happy Hour. Under new management, it has the new name Sunset Bar & Grill. The restaurant has been expanded and renovated and given a new expanded menu. The food is good and plentiful and supported by good service.

Another feature of the restaurant is free WiFi. If you are anchored close enough and have a good antenna, you can even get it on your boat. Depending on your location and your antenna there are a number of other free WiFi services that you can access from your boat at anchor in Porlamar.
Porlamar is one of our favourite stops. Regrettably, there is the risk of being boarded and robbed. However, with the proper precautions, it is possible to visit Porlamar unscathed, as most do every year. Forewarned is forearmed!

Kris & Sandra Hartford

S/V Nomotos

* BsF stands for “bolívar fuerte”, the new currency of Venezuela since January 1, 2008. As the highest rate of inflation in the Western hemisphere drove prices in Venezuela into the hundreds of thousands, millions or billions of bolívars, the decimal point was simply moved three places to the left. The official fixed exchange rate is now 2.15 to the US dollar (compared to last year’s official rate of 2,150 per dollar) but the black market rate will be significantly higher.

READERS' FORUM

 
Dear Compass,
Your correspondent Don Street has written such drivel in his “What’s on My Mind: A Look at Marine Pollution” [Caribbean Compass, February 2008] that I am stimulated to respond.
Toilet effluent and pollution: He assumes that toilet effluent is a serious polluter and it is not. When toilet flush is immediately deposited in salt water the breakdown is rapid. When it is retained with fresh water in a holding tank for long periods it develops into something far more threatening.
Simpson Bay Lagoon: Mr. Street assumes that the flushing effect by tides is worse when the openings to the sea are smaller. This is not true. The smaller openings cause a higher current speed and therefore more effective flushing. In the case of the Simpson Bay lagoon, there are parts that are very effectively flushed through the small but high-current openings and there are parts where the flushing action is much less, but it is not true that the Simpson Bay lagoon has a particularly serious pollution problem. Where it is a problem this is where land-sourced pollutants go into the lagoon in those parts where the flushing action is the least, being the Cole Bay corner and the Marigot corner.
In the case of the mega-yachts, these all have treatment facilities so their contribution is relatively small.
I have not seen Mr. Street in the Simpson Bay lagoon for a very long time and I am there every day.
Robbie Ferron
St. Maarten

Dear Compass,
This is in response to Chris Doyle’s recipe for Crusty Boat Bread in the February issue of Compass, and Sue Simon’s response to it in the March issue’s Readers’ Forum.
Yes, it is possible to enjoy delicious homemade bread on-board without an oven, and without making a mess! But you will need two special pieces of equipment, which most boats already have: a pressure cooker and a non-stick wok. And if you don’t own these implements, you should! You will find dozens of other delicious uses for both.
 Here is the dough recipe we use, though this method will work with any bread dough:
250g plain flour
250g multigrain flour
1/2 sachet (5.5g) dry yeast
200ml fresh water and 100ml of salt water (or 300ml of fresh water with one half teaspoon of salt)
1 Tablespoon cornmeal
To make no-mess bread dough, put the flour and dry yeast into the wok and mix with a wooden spoon so as not to damage the non-stick surface. Let stand for five minutes before adding the water and salt. Mix ingredients then knead the dough, still in the wok, for a total of ten minutes’ mixing and kneading. You can dust your hands with some plain flour for kneading over the wok, so that any spills will be absorbed by the dough. No mess! Cover with a tea towel and let rise, 60 to 90 minutes. Punch the dough down and knead again for ten minutes. The dough should not stick to the wok or your hands, leaving a clean galley.
To bake bread on the stovetop you need a pressure-cooker, preferably a heavy aluminium one with straight sides (which allows you to turn the loaf out easily). Follow your favourite bread-dough recipe, or use the one we have provided. Prepare the pressure cooker by greasing the bottom half with margarine or butter, add the cornmeal and shake it around to get an even coating.
After your dough has risen and you have kneaded it for the second time, place the dough in the pressure cooker. Cover with the tea towel again and allow to rise, 60 to 90 minutes. Remove the tea towel, tighten the lid and, WITHOUT THE WEIGHT (to allow the steam to escape), cook on very low heat for 45 to 60 minutes. The bread is cooked when the top is dry, or a quarter-sized damp spot in the middle remains; you may need to adjust the cooking time to suit your equipment. The bread will be white and soft on top, with golden-brown crust on the bottom and sides. Turn the bread out (a shake may help loosen a loaf that has stuck to the sides; grease a little higher next time), allow to cool, and enjoy!
The boat stays cool and the galley stays clean. This is also a low-carbon recipe, using very low heat instead of a pre-heated, high-heat oven!
We find bread made this way will still make great toast up to five days later, even if stored out of the fridge.
Craig Lovett and Sylvie Honnay
Liaison

Dear Compass,
After reading your request in the April issue of Compass for the gentleman who sent you a recipe for Oven-Free Bread to contact you as his name was lost, may I offer my recipe for Oven-Free Bread that uses very little gas (as was commented on by Sue Simons aboard S/V Lorensu)?
This bread is easy to make and cook. An extra advantage is that you don't need an oven: you cook it on the stovetop, which uses very little gas.
1 Tablespoon dried yeast
1 Tablespoon sugar
4 Cups white bread flour
1 1/2 Cups of sea water (read Notes below)
Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the sea water, then thoroughly mix the flour in.
Put the mixture into a well-greased, thick-bottomed pot and cover with a well-fitting lid. (I have found that a deep pot about 200 millimeters/8 inches in diameter works best)
Let stand in a warm place for about two hours or until double in size.
Cook on a low flame for 30 minutes, gently turn the bread over and cook for another 30 minutes.
Best if eaten while still hot.
Notes:
You can substitute the sea water with 1 1/2 cups of drinking water with 2 teaspoons of table salt mixed in.
You can also use 1 cup of drinking water and 1/2 cup of milk (fresh or sour), also with 2 teaspoons of table salt mixed in.
You can add a tablespoon of cooking oil to change the texture a little.
You can also experiment with different types of flour. You can use multigrain, whole wheat, etcetera, but the cooking times will have to be increased.
If the lid of your pot is not a good fit, cover the pot with a piece of aluminium foil first (shiny side facing the bread), and then put the lid of the pot back on.
You can also add 1/4 cup of sliced or halved olives to make a great olive bread.
My favorite is to add 1/8 cup of olives, 1/8 cup of sun-dried tomatoes cut into smallish pieces, and a level tablespoon of crushed garlic. (The addition of garlic, even just a little, makes the bread last longer.)
Bon appétit!
Kind regards,
Errol (don’t lose my name) Lishman
S/V Zephyr

Hello, Yachties,
It’s me again, after a long break. You know, the one who takes the rise out of the pathetic ones. You know the ones I mean: those whose faithful friends have brought them thousands of miles. Then what happens? Their faithful friend develops a fault — and they abandon it.
This is in response to the “Info & Updates” item in the April issue about the poor sailors who abandoned their boat in mid-Atlantic because the chainplates were coming loose and they feared a possible dismasting. The boat then drifted intact to the Caribbean.
“O my god,” they say. “What shall I do?” Well, it is obvious even to the fools who cross the Atlantic these days. Jump in the liferaft and scream, “Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp! I can’t fix it.” Didn’t Daddy ever tell these people that you step up into a life raft, not down into it? Reference the Fastnet tragedy: more people died in liferafts than on the damaged yachts. I sincerely hope the insurance companies hammer these pathetic characters. Mind you, doesn’t it give these so-called mariners a bit of kudos when they relate the upgraded story in the local yacht club?
It’s like the crews you see in the Caribbean these days on the so-called superyachts. Courtesy? They don’t know the first thing about it, screaming through the anchorage at 25 knots, looking at themselves to see how they are doing.
Anyway back to the wannabes. Why don’t they carry a bit of knowledge and tools of the sea? I have come across people who have arrived in Antigua from Europe who do not know even the basics of their own boats, let alone having enough knowledge to help anyone else. I spent years acquiring an engineering ticket in 40,000-horsepower engine rooms and I still do not know it all — I still learn. Although I have always been an advocate of “free sea and sail”, I think that the fools who are now setting out across the oceans should not be allowed to step off the shore till they have some knowledge of what they are embarking on.
I am as always,
Mike East
S/Y Nostromo

Dear Compass,
I read the item in April’s Compass (“Business Briefs” department) on generator noise with great interest. Having looked at the full report I see that the gen set I use was not tested, probably not yet classed as being built by a prominent builder. Anyhow, I reckon I have the quietest generator on any boat anywhere in the world! It is a Whispergen and provides me with all the power and hot water we could ever wish for. It has NO internal combustion. No “squeeze BANG push” and consumes 0.6 litres of diesel per hour. I’d be happy to show my fit and let you (try to) hear it running!
I have no deal with the company, am just a very, very satisfied customer. I think Roger at Maintech on St. Maarten is the local agent and I have told him that I will happily show my generator to anyone interested. I believe that it is now competitively priced.
Steve Hunt
Maggy May

Dear Compass,
Our dinghy was stolen recently in front of Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. It was locked but the stainless-steel chain was cut. We went at midnight to the police station in Gros Islet and made a report to Mr. Hippolyte.
This nice policeman brought our dinghy back two days later in good condition. (A fisherman found it?)
We think it is necessary to say that if you are the victim of theft, first and immediately go to the police station. Then be patient: you have a little time to wait so that the police can do their work.
We are happy that all is okay and the police in Gros Islet (especially Mr. Hippolyte) were very friendly, kindly and helpful.
Maria Schukle and Michael Sumper
Shalimardue

Open letter to the Bequia Sailing Club,
Arriving back in Antigua after a boisterous sail from Bequia, it’s time to reflect on the wonderful time we enjoyed in Bequia before during and after the Easter Regatta.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those who put in so much effort to make the regatta such a success, particularly Noel Mawer and his sister Nicola Redway, Wilfred Dederer and the many helpers who were working towards the regatta weeks before the event and thereafter, and not forgetting thanks to James Benoit (Commodore of Grenada Yacht Club) for coming up from Grenada to assist with the yacht races.
The racing was excellent, with varying courses, each day different, each day exciting. Prizes were copious; even we on Samadhi came home with something to be proud of.
 There are many who have, with just cause, been attending this regatta for years, coming from Antigua, St. Lucia, Barbados, Carriacou and Trinidad, plus a great French contingent and the added enthusiasm of the J/24 fleet, some sailing from St. Lucia and farther afield in boisterous conditions. All contribute to make this a great event.
The “two bow” or double-ender local boat racing, organized by Bequia Sailing Club Commodore Orbin Ollivierre, was spectacular as ever. These open boats are, to our yachtsmen’s eyes, grossly over-rigged and extreme — but they are sailed with consummate skill. Some are a hundred years old; their origin is to be seen in old engravings illustrating Moby-Dick. Such enthusiasm, competitiveness and yet friendliness amongst the competitors, local guys, many of whom make their living out of the sea.
Putting on an event such as this does not happen overnight; it involves days spent in preparation, hours spent on the committee boat and working out results, and then presenting prizes, all done as a generosity to the sailing community. Thank you all so much. We will be back.
Frank Pearce, Vice Commodore Antigua Yacht Club
Yacht Samadhi

Dear Compass,
In post-war Europe the Marshall Plan resulted in the economic miracle of Germany recovering from WWII devastation to become an economic powerhouse. It seems that the Dutch side of St. Maarten is trying to copy the Marshall Plan even though the French did not ask for it, nor seem to need it. 
On visits to St. Maarten – St. Martin in January of 2008 and again in March, Marigot Bay (French side) was filled with boats. Simpson Bay (Dutch side), on the other hand, was almost deserted. In the lagoon, on the Dutch side — which is normally crowded with boats — huge areas were totally empty.  Just past the airport runway, i.e. on the French side, boats were anchored in numbers we’ve never seen before in the five years that we have been in and out of St. Martin. The same was true of Marigot Bay — lots of boats, compared to very few in Simpson Bay.
The reason for the change became obvious very quickly: a huge increase in the fees for staying on the Dutch side of St. Maarten is now in effect. For example, a 46-foot boat now pays US$40 for a one-week stay — whether in the lagoon, or out in the bay. If you go through the bridge, the same size boat gets to pay another US$30. A one-week stay in the lagoon for a 46-foot boat is therefore US$70. Each additional week, or partial week would cost this size boat another US$40. A complete fee schedule is available on the internet, although it was not accurate when I looked at it. The fee schedule is also posted in the office at Customs/Immigration at the bridge. This is a doubling of the fees and in some cases, depending on the size of the boat, even more in the case of the bridge fee.
Many of us stop in St. Maarten – St. Martin to have boat work done, often resulting in a several-week stay. The costs add up in a hurry, and this is only for anchoring.
The same 46-foot boat clearing in on the French side pays US$8 total, whether for a week or four weeks.
The idea of having to pay for anchoring out in the bay has always been a contentious issue for cruisers ever since the Lagoon Authority implemented the fees.  This latest increase has caused even more outrage among cruisers and has been the talk of the morning net and the various watering holes that line the lagoon.
Needless to say, cruisers are voting with their wallets and are staying away from the Dutch side in droves — restaurants and bars have noticed a drop-off in business. (Yes, I talked to a number of business owners and also a mega-yacht skipper who was also unhappy, but obviously less so, since this money is not coming out of his pocket directly). 
The results have been very predictable: boats are anchoring on the French side of the island and the lagoon, leaving the Dutch side almost empty with the exception of the mega-yachts using the yacht clubs/marinas.
I don’t know the driving force behind the increases, nor whether anyone is working to have these fees rescinded. It is doubtful that these fees put more money into government coffers since many cruisers are moving to the French side or staying away. They certainly hurt restaurants and bars since boats/cruisers are now on the French side. And, yes, many businesses there are still offering the one-to-one exchange for the dollar to the Euro. 
One can only conclude that the Dutch authorities are trying to discourage cruisers, for whatever reason. 
Ah yes, pass the croissant and vive la France!
Here is an abbreviated Dutch-side fee schedule in US$ (the full schedule is available at www.smmta.com):
BRIDGE FEES:
9 to 12 meters    $10
12 to 15 meters    $30
15 to 18 meters    $60
ANCHORING FEE:
8 to 13 meters    $20
13 to 18 meters    $40
18 to 23 meters    $60
CUSTOMS CLEARANCE    $2
HARBOR CLEARANCE    $5
Eric Dehmel
S/V Psyche

Dear Compass,
Yachts are no longer welcome in St. Maarten. At least that’s the message being broadcast from the south half of the ‘Friendly Island’.
Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority Corp. (SLAC) doubled their ‘harbor’ fees January 1, 2008. If you wish to anchor in the Dutch side of the Lagoon, or outside in Simpson Bay, a fee of US$20 is imposed for our 43-foot boat for a week or less.
Checking into the Dutch side can be painful. You must process through both Immigrations and SLAC, each with their own window, each with only one clerk. In any other Caribbean country, if I walked in and saw seven people in line I would go do some errands and come back later. But with only one person ahead, I get in line. Only in St. Maarten is it common to stand in line for an hour because the one person in front of you happens to be an agent who may be processing as many seven boats. Why isn’t there another process for agents?
At the Immigration window you can wait in line for a couple cruisers, plus an agent from the Anguilla ferry who is carrying 18 passports from 12 different countries, including three countries on some kind of global ‘watch list’. After 30 or 40 minutes, when finally it is your turn at the window, you have the privilege of asking the Immigration Officer for the appropriate form so you can go fill out three pages of documents, then get back in the same line and wait again to complete your business. Why isn’t there a different process for ferries and why aren’t forms available in the lobby?
On January 1, 2008, SLAC also began to impose fees to transit the bridge for vessels less than 90 feet (which were previously exempt), US$30 in our case. We had anchored outside in Simpson Bay for several weeks until we needed fuel and water. We could have gone in the morning’s first bridge to a marina in the Lagoon, tanked up and come back out the second bridge, re-anchoring in the same spot in Simpson Bay. But a fee of US$30 made this plan unacceptable, so we cleared out and took our business to the French side.
Additionally, around the first of the year the St. Maarten Coast Guard, began to patrol the Dutch anchorages, boarding yachts and inspecting ship papers to be sure you have paid your SLAC fees. While this is certainly within their rights, they seem determined to harass cruisers. They don’t bother the large tenders of the mega-yachts, the local vendors or the marina tenders speeding around. They don’t mess with the local fishermen or water taxis that put out so much wake that you have to eat your lunch off the galley floor. But cruisers have been stopped and fined US$250 for failure to carry a light in a dinghy during daylight hours. During the day?!?
Two guys were stopped because their dinghy was not traveling in a straight line through the anchorage. They were told, in the opinion of the St. Maarten Coast Guard the operator must be drunk, a violation which carries a fine of US$250, and is payable in cash, on the spot. When the operator replied he did not have $250 cash in his possession, they instead fined the passenger. Apparently in St. Maarten, it is illegal to ride in a dinghy with an operator who cannot drive a straight line through an anchorage full of yachts, moorings, chop and wake.
If these actions were performed in the interest of safety and security, all speeders would be treated equally and they would stop the marina tenders and fishing boats with permanent lights to be sure they work during the day.
But cruisers are not alone in feeling discouraged from visiting Dutch St. Maarten. The mega-yachts are also discouraged by the high fees, the new Immigration laws limiting their crewmembers, and the limited access through the drawbridge. The St. Maarten Marine Trades Association (SMMTA) lobbied on behalf of the large boats for night-time bridge openings that would limit the impact on auto traffic, a balance that needs to be maintained. Though the Dutch government has approved this concept, the SLAC refuses to implement the idea. It should be clearly understood that the SLAC is a corporation, sub-contracted to the Dutch government — the tail is wagging the dog.
According to the SLAC, to move a yacht from Simpson Bay or the Lagoon to Phillipsburg, one must check out of Simpson harbor. Of course to move from the Dutch side to the French side one must check out of the harbor and the country. Both of these regulations involve fees. Because they cannot possibly process more than 50 boats a day, the Heineken Regatta President had to ask about the requirements for their 268 race boats, which sail from Simpson to Phillipsburg and on to French Marigot. The local newspaper reported SLAC’s response as: “The rules are quite clear and must be followed. We are not interested in promoting yachting in St. Maarten.” With that kind of attitude it seems that St. Maarten can kiss their Heiney goodbye!
Perhaps politics can explain all this irrational behavior. St. Maarten is currently attempting to get a divorce from the Netherlands. Apparently, before independence The Hague has asked them to show better control of Immigration issues and demonstrate fiscal stability. But could St. Maarten become a sovereign nation with a smaller share of the multi-million dollar marine industry?
St. Maarten used to be the yachting capital of the Caribbean, but the current course leads only to disaster.
Sadly submitted,
Tom Henkens
 
We passed Eric and Tom’s letters on to the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association for comment, which follows.
CC

Dear Compass,
Thank you for the opportunity to respond to the letters of Tom Henkens and Eric Dehmel on the fees for yachts of Dutch St. Maarten and other issues.
In general, the St. Maarten Marine Trades Association is fully in agreement with the points brought up by the writers and is working hard at trying to amend the present fee structure. Allow me to make some points on the issues relating to the charges of Dutch St. Maarten:
• In spite of the existence of extensive “good government” procedures that would normally require the private sector, in this case the yachting industry, to be consulted prior to this huge increase in tariffs which could threaten the US$90 million industry in Dutch St. Maarten, there was no such consultation and in December 2007 the Island Council changed the relevant ordinance and instituted it one month later.
• Some years ago, the management of the lagoon and the bridge was put in the hands of an organization called SLAC (Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority Corporation) with the stated statutory goal of developing the area and the yachting industry. The management of this organization was put in the hands of a Mr. Russell Voges who stands out in respect of his unwillingness to co-operate with and support the yachting industry.
• Just over a week ago (this was written April 25th) the St. Maarten Marine Trades submitted a proposal for revised rates to the Executive Council of the Island Council, which proposed a set of rates that should be a great deal more palatable to yachtsmen. If these are accepted then the rates will go down, although the issues of long waiting lines will still remain to a large degree. The proposals include the change of rates for outside-the-bridge anchoring, which quite obviously should be different from being inside the lagoon. We are pleased to note that leading government figures have expressed their acceptance of a change in rates and we hope that an announcement could be made this summer for a change in the rates.
It is useful to know the origin of this rate problem for yachtsmen. The Simpson Bay Bridge was rebuilt some years ago and still needs to be paid for and will require a major refit in the near future. These costs have to be borne by the island and the tariffs were introduced apparently to cover these costs, but the St Maarten Marine Trades Association is not familiar with the financial position of the SLAC .
It is also useful for yachtsmen to know that the rates that are published on the website of the Lagoon Authority are those of 2007 and are therefore grossly incorrect. This inability of the Lagoon Authority to update their site is in line with their inefficiency at the payment kiosks and the non-cooperative manner of their managing director, Mr. Russell Voges.
The letter writers also refer to other issues:
Coast Guard fines: The issue of the dinghy operator accused of drunk driving has been passed on to the authorities by us. We continue to work with the Coast Guard in trying to get a better understanding by their patrol boats, which are manned by employees of the Kingdom Coastguard, to better understand the issues relating to yachts.
We would like to thank the letter writers for expressing their concern. We can only agree with most of what is written and promise that we will continue making every effort to avoid the demise of Dutch St. Maarten as a yachting destination for all sizes of yachts.
We encourage those persons who are unwilling to pay the Dutch rates to visit via the French side of the island at a clearing cost of only US$8. Bring us a croissant if you have the chance.
Robbie Ferron
Member of the Board for Government Relations
St. Maarten Marine Trades Association

Dear Compass,
Cruisers frequently complain about the quality of the mail service in the islands (“snail mail” as it is now called) but I ask you to consider this true example.
Aunt Pat has never failed to send me a birthday card and now that she is 85 years old, that is quite a feat. The last one arrived in a timely fashion and it was addressed:
Mrs. Teri Gunther
Peeks, Trinidad
c/o Boat “Free”
How many states or countries could match that service?
Teri Rothbauer
S/Y Free


Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
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