UPDATED CRUISING GUIDE FOR COAST OF COLOMBIA
Part Three: Clearance, Security and Services

 
by Lourae and Randy Kenoffel

Introduction
We, Lourae and Randy Kenoffel on Pizazz, are pleased to provide this "guide", a collection of our personal experiences, to fill in the blanks between Bonaire and Panama. If you are going east from Panama, just reverse the sequence. Please refer to Doyle and Fisher's Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire, as well as the new (March 2006) Cruising Guide to the ABC Islands by Waterson/van der Reijden; and refer to Zydler's The Panama Guide.
The information that follows is our personal opinion only. We provide the essentials of cruising; that means "where to find what you need when you are in new places". The information is sorted by category and we will give you data by location.
Pizazz, a Beneteau 500, has day-sailed along the Colombia coast four times: twice going west (in November 1997 and October 2000) and twice doing the impossible by going east (in early May 1999 and October 2005). Four trips have given us experience BUT we do not claim to be experts. Some people say "you shouldn't stop along that coast", including some guides that say your chances of survival aren't good. However, we believe there are more risks offshore to your boat or your crew. This guide describes safe anchorages to rest and enjoy, wait for weather, and make repairs, if needed. You will see some beautiful spots along the coast and meet some very friendly people, or you can by-pass all the wonderful anchorages and go direct to Cartagena or the San Blas Islands. You make your choice.

Notes of Caution (a.k.a. "CYA")
All GPS readings vary slightly depending upon your equipment and selective availability of satellites, as well as input error. The GPS waypoints given are listed in degrees and minutes with hundredths of minutes (not seconds). These are waypoints for places to head towards or near anchor spots; they are not designed for you to connect-the-dots (do not go from waypoint to waypoint without checking your charts). People, USE YOUR CHARTS AND USE YOUR EYES!
Here are a few important factors to remember. One, be realistic and do not set a schedule that you cannot meet. Second, watch for the right weather windows (see WEATHER section below). Third, PREPARE YOUR BOAT AND YOURSELF for downwind sailing in heavy seas ó tacking downwind is easier on the rig; it helps prevent accidental gybes, broken booms and poles; and is often faster and more comfortable. Be careful. Going east will be primarily a motor sail.
Weather (the Most Important Issue)
The key to cruising the Colombia coast safely and comfortably is weather. This is especially important if you plan an offshore passage, but is also important for coastal cruising.
The entire Caribbean has two seasons: Wet Season is June through November; Dry Season is December through May. If you travel in the months between the seasons - late March through early June or late September through November - you are likely to have calmer conditions. Our four passages have been completed during the so-called "change of seasons".
Generally, the farther south you go, the lighter the winds. These 400 miles between Aruba and Cartagena are known for the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean and among the top five worst passages around the world. Over the years, sea captains have learned that this Colombia coast is prone to strong winds and abnormally large waves. Look at the Pilot charts for each month and you will easily see the few times when the conditions are calmer. So plan ahead and watch for calm predictions; and, always add a minimum of five knots to any forecasted weather.
The "weather gurus" almost always say to stay at least 200 miles off shore (they base this not on weather but upon a fear of the coast). We have found that the conditions off shore can be bad, resulting in stories of boats getting pooped, having torn sails and scared crews. By staying close to shore (within five to ten miles, or closer) you may experience some land effect on the weather, often beneficial for your cruising; at times it is possible to use the currents and counter-currents; and, as mentioned above, you can always stop for needed rest or repairs (not an option on an off-shore passage).
Part One of this updated guide, in the May 2006 issue of Compass, covered anchorages from Bonaire to Cabo de la Vela. Part Two, in the June issue, covered Anchorages from Five Bays to San Blas. See footnote at the end of this article for information on accessing the entire guide.

Customs and Immigration
BONAIRE
The Customs building is on the waterfront; it is the turquoise-colored building south of Karel's Bar and the Venezuelan fruit/veggie stand. The officials are very friendly and helpful. They are open 24/7. Ask for directions to Immigration. If you clear in or out after-hours, go to the Police station. No costs. Depending upon your nationality, you might have to get an extension to stay longer than 30 days - ask when you clear in with Immigration. For clearing out, go to Immigration first, then Customs. Your "zarpe" will cost you 25 florin (14 cents US). Everything is within walking distance.

CURAÇAO
From Spanish Water, the main anchorage for cruisers, it's a 20-minute bus ride to Willemstad. The bus stop is just north of the dinghy dock at the fishermen's marina (ask at Sarifundy's for a schedule and cost). From the bus station in town, walk along the river edge to the north; the Customs building is on the corner past all the Venezuelan veggie boats. The officials are very friendly and helpful. Easy paperwork; no cost. Ask at Customs for directions to Immigration which is across the water (free ferry) and a walk along the waterfront to a yellow building just beyond the big overhead bridge. Immigration will ask your intended length of stay (90 days is maximum). You may have to go to the Post Office after the first 14 days to get an extension. For clearing out, go to Customs and then Immigration. No cost. We suggest to clear for Cartagena, whether you go to Aruba or not.

ARUBA
This is where it gets a little frustrating. The hardest part is that Aruba Port Authority (VHF 11) requires you to tie your vessel to the dock when clearing in; they will not let you anchor and go by dinghy. They know how to deal with cruise ships with lots of passengers and crew, not cruising yachts with two crew and no passengers. The cruise ship dock has big black tires that leave smudge marks on your topsides, so use lots of fenders and try to get to the north part of the dock that's sheltered behind the terminal building. No one will be there to take your lines so have someone ready to jump to the dock with a spring line and stern line.
Once you've made it to the dock, Customs and Immigration will come to you. No cost. Complete their forms or provide a crew list. They will not stamp your passports unless you ask them to. The drawback to having your passport stamped is that you must return your vessel to the dock to clear out. But if they did not stamp you in (nor do they take your zarpe for Cartagena), why check out? Just leave. But, don't let the checking in/out hassle keep you from visiting this fun island.
Refer to the March 2006 Cruising Guide to the ABC Islands for detailed information about "official" paperwork.

CARTAGENA
Although you may cruise along the coast and stop several times for a few or many days, we are not aware of problems resulting from waiting until arrival in Cartagena to clear in. Do not stop in Santa Marta commercial port.
Colombia requires an agent to process papers; you cannot do this by yourself. The cost is US$60 to $70, which includes both inward and outward clearance; if you plan to stay less than 30 days, it costs less. There are several agents to help you: "White Light" has an office at Club de Pesca; Romero or Manfred work from Club Náutico. All of the agents speak good English and are very helpful for any other assistance you may need. They will take care of Immigration. Return to your agent a day or two before departure.

PANAMA
Most cruisers visit the San Blas islands before passing through the Canal or heading to the Northwest Caribbean. When you clear out of Cartagena, ask for clearance to your next port (Panama or Honduras) with "puntas intermedios". We are not aware of anyone having problems with the length of time between clearing out and into the next country. Many cruisers stay in the San Blas anywhere from a few days to months or even years before clearing into the next port. Porvenir, the westernmost of the San Blas islands, is an official port where you can get your cruising permit (90 days) for US$70 plus $10 per passport. The maximum stay in Panama is six months and you must get an extension after the first 90 days. So spend your days, weeks, or months in the San Blas; avoid Porvenir and wait until you get to Colon to do all of your paperwork, including that for your Canal transit.

Security
Check with other cruisers for current security situations. Lower your anxiety level by setting up radio contacts or buddy boats. When you are at anchor, use your anchor light not only because the law requires that you do so but it also is helpful for the buddy boats to watch out for each other. Remember, it is not always the locals taking things; it could be other cruisers. For two of our trips, we set up a daily SSB radio net with the purpose of educating all cruisers about this coast. All it takes is someone to organize a time and frequency. It sure helps, particularly during September through November when most cruisers are traveling this coast.

BONAIRE
Occasionally, there are some petty theft problems; sometimes dinghies disappear. The main problem on this small island is break-ins into rental cars. This is a great island for diving and the nurse sharks are friendly!

CURACAO
Spanish Water can be a hot spot for dinghy thefts. Raise it or lock it! There have also been muggings and pickpockets in town.
ARUBA
As so few vessels stay very long (although we've stayed for a week or two), we are not aware of problems. When in doubt, lock it. This is a tourist island so the land sharks are vicious (everything is expensive). And, we have heard stories of easy access to drugs.

COLOMBIA COAST
Cruisers are now stopping at various anchorages which are secluded from populated cities, so generally there are no problems. We heard of one dinghy that was stolen in Cabo de la Vela (not locked, the line was cut). As mentioned above, NEVER stop in Baranquilla. There were two incidents near Punta Hermosa in 2002 and 2003.
The Colombia Coast Guard is "out there"; they are extremely helpful, very friendly, speak some English, and tell us to call on VHF 16 if problems occur or help is needed. Do not hesitate to call them; they are great. We have never seen anything suspicious along this coast.

CARTAGENA
As with all populated areas, there is petty theft. Occasionally there are dinghy thefts, so lock it and put loose items away. If you enter Cartagena Bay through Boca Chica (the main shipping channel), do not stop just inside the Bay, which looks like the first quiet spot (particularly if you've had a long hard passage) as this place is guaranteed for a break-in. Continue to the north end of the Bay and anchor off Club Náutico. Cartagena seems to be a demilitarized zone so the Colombians can take their families for vacation. Beware of the land sharks selling emeralds.

ROSARIOS
There appear to be problems if you anchor along the south shores. Usually it is petty theft of items left on the deck, snorkels and fins taken from unattended dinghies, and once a stern anchor and chain removed from the yacht. Nothing has happened to boats anchored along the north shores or near the aquarium. Check at Club Náutico for the latest information.

PANAMA
The San Blas Islands are generally theft-free; however, there have been reports of clothing taken off lines or items disappearing from dinghies (probably taken by kids) at some islands.
Colon is a big city and another story. We've heard of no major problems while anchored on the Flats (except a rare dinghy theft) or while in Panama Canal Yacht Club, but in town be very careful and always use a taxi at night (they're cheap). Ask others for current crime situations.

Fuel
The prices given for diesel, gas (petrol), propane and water are in US dollars per US gallon as of late 2005. You won't find cheaper prices for diesel and gas than in Venezuela, so load up. Pizazz has a watermaker; therefore we only can comment on availability, not price. You can always catch some rain. For those with watermakers, do not make water in Cartagena (it is filthy); in Colon, there is a lot of fresh water coming out of the Canal, so lower your pressure.

BONAIRE
Everything is available at Harbor Village Marina. Diesel is $2.45; gas $4.73 (ouch!); propane $14 for a 10-pound bottle; water at the dock is 14 cents.

CURAÇAO
Sarifundy's can arrange for propane and there is a water hose at their dock. The Curaçao Yacht Club has a fuel dock: diesel is $1.99; gas $3.82.

ARUBA
We don't have prices but diesel, gas and water are available at SeaPort Marina. If you are anchored near the hotels, you can get water at the fishermen's dock. If you have access to a car, diesel and gas can be jugged from gas stations. We have no information about propane.

COLOMBIA COAST
If there is an urgent need for fuel, call the Colombia Coast Guard on VHF 16. We also found that you can get diesel and gas in the Rodadero anchorage (just south of Santa Marta); you will have to jug it from the gas station two blocks away from a small fisherman's marina. It is also possible to get jerry jugs filled by the gentleman in Bahia Guayraca (the middle of the Five Bays).

CARTAGENA
Club Náutico is the cruiser hangout; you pay a daily fee which covers showers, water, dinghy dock, etcetera. Coordinate with other vessels (i.e. collect the money and gas bottles) to get Fernando at Club Náutico to purchase propane, which costs $3 for a 10-pound tank or $4 for a 20-pound tank. The taxi costs about $10, whether there is one bottle or 15. There are several fuel docks with diesel at $1.70 and gas at $2.45. Top off your fuel and propane tanks and jugs here, as everything is expensive in San Blas.

PANAMA
In the San Blas Islands, diesel is available in Rio Diablo at $3 and gas is $4. Propane is available ($10) but you must either rig up an adapter to gravity-flow into your bottle or purchase a Panamanian 25-pound bottle ($75) to use with an adapter.
Water comes from the sky. Collect rainwater close to the coast; the outer islands get less rain. Also, fresh water can be found farther up some rivers.
In Colon, go to the Panama Canal Yacht Club: water is free and diesel is $2.25 at their fuel dock. Any taxi driver will help you get propane ($10 for 10 pounds) and you jerry jug gas from the fuel station across the road for $2.25 (or a taxi will help). The yacht club will not let you jerry jug diesel from the fuel station; you must buy it at their fuel dock (all of the taxi drivers know this).

Marinas, Haulouts & Dinghy Docks
BONAIRE
Harbour Village Marina is safe with 15-plus feet of water. WARNING: Lots of mosquitoes. Club Náutico (along the waterfront) has a few slips available. Plaza Resort has some slips and dock space, but mostly the depth here is 9 feet. The dock at Karel's Beach Bar is the main dinghy dock for getting into town; use the dock at Harbour Village Marina to walk north to hotel resorts. There is limited haulout for smaller boats but most cruisers go to Curaçao for haulout.

CURAÇAO
Seru Boca Marina has slips for storage, very secure and well protected. Curaçao Yacht Club is mostly for local boats. For haulout, contact Antillean Slipway in Willemstad for work, and their associated Curaçao Boat Yard for storage on the hard. Dinghies can be tied to the dock at Sarifundy's or at the fishermen's marina. Curaçao is a popular place to leave your boat to travel as there are good airline connections to almost anywhere.

ARUBA
SeaPort Marina has slips for rent. Leave your dinghy in the marina or use the fishermen's marina near the hotels.

CARTAGENA
Club Náutico has docks for about 50 boats, Med-moor style. Club de Pesca is a local club/marina which has some finger slips available for cruisers.
There are three haulout facilities in Cartagena: the Navy yard takes care of big boats; catamarans are lifted out by cables; and there are 40-ton travelifts at the other yards. All good facilities with good prices and good work. Pizazz had new gelcoat professionally applied at a good price at Todomar Boat Yard. Club Náutico has the dinghy dock for boats at anchor.

PANAMA
Panamarine, to the west of the San Blas islands, has moorings available for long-term storage; make reservations. Panama Canal Yacht Club in Colon has slips and a med-moor dock on a first-come basis; they have a railway for basic work. When in Colon, you can anchor in The Flats and use the dinghy dock at the Panama Canal Yacht Club for a daily fee. There is a new marina at Shelter Bay [Editor's note: see ad on page 32.]. Pedro Miguel Boat Club, in the Canal, is closed. Balboa Yacht Club on the Pacific side has moorings (no marina) and two railways; you cannot anchor and you must use their motor launch to get to shore. A new "marina" (moorings or anchor) is located on the east side of Flamenco Island with a 150-ton travelift. Another option is to anchor either on the south or north side of the causeway (depending upon the season) near Flamenco Island and take your dinghy into the Flamenco Marina for a daily fee. The situation is constantly changing in Panama, so check around.

Communications
For all locations, the best bet for out-going mail is someone flying back home. Most countries have cell phone services and will activate your cell phone with a local number.

BONAIRE
There are phones along the waterfront and at TELBO (the phone company) that require phone cards. There is one phone inside the phone company that is ATT Direct. The office at Harbour Village Marina will send or receive your faxes, as will the phone company.
The internet cafés keep changing, so check around. You can now get WiFi services in the marina and on the moorings; call "Water Planet" on VHF 77. Also use VHF 77 for hailing fellow cruisers, then switch.
Flat mail can be sent through Harbour Village Marina; use FedEx. Incoming packages (other than flat mail) will go through Rocargo and expect to pay for their services and possibly 30 percent Customs duties unless you depart immediately.

CURAÇAO
There is a phone available at Sarifundy's; you can dial ATT and pay a minimal charge to the bartender. Get your faxes sent to Sarifundy's; There is internet access at the one computer here too. There are several internet cafés in Willemstad, or use the library. Cruisers either get their mail quickly or have long delays with packages; there is no rhyme or reason. Packages and flat mail are duty-free. We recommend FedEx, not DHL. VHF 72 is the hailing channel here.

ARUBA
Phones are very difficult unless you use phone cards. We had no success getting through to ATT and had to make a credit card call. Use the hotels or phone company for faxes. Internet cafés are located in a few shopping malls. We've had no experience with mail.

CARTAGENA
There is a phone at Club Náutico with direct ATT access; this is on the wall to the right of the office. You can buy and use phone cards. You can use the phone companies in town for phones and faxes. Club Náutico will receive faxes but not send. There are several internet cafés around town; one is two blocks from Club Náutico. Cost is $3 per hour. We understand that WiFi service has now been set up from Club Náutico. FedEx is best for flat mail to Club Náutico. If you have packages sent to you, they may never show up; the Customs officials like to ransom packages or they get "stuck" in Bogotá. In October 2005, there was a daily Net on VHF 69.
PANAMA

Surprisingly, there are phones in most villages in the San Blas. However, there are often long lines and it is difficult to get past the busy signal. Some are coin operated, some are phone card. You can access ATT. There are several phones at the Panama Canal Yacht Club that use phone cards or coins. There are no fax machines in the San Blas, but the PCYC will send/receive your faxes. The Internet has not yet reached the San Blas, however there is an air-conditioned café in Colon for 75 cents per hour or the office at PCYC for $3 per hour.
You cannot receive mail in the San Blas unless you make special arrangements with someone in Colon or Panama City (e.g. Marco at Budget Marine). In Colon, the US Postal Service International Express Mail takes two to three days to get to a nearby post office. FedEx and DHL will deliver to the yacht club. Packages can be sent to the yacht club with no duty as long as it is marked "yacht in transit" - a great place to have all those marine parts sent in. You may pay a small delivery or Customs clearing fees. VHF 72 is the hailing channel.

Laundry & Garbage
You can always do hand laundry. Pizazz bought a small washing machine in Panama (we have also seen them in Cartagena and Curaçao) for $80. If you have the room, get one!
You should separate your garbage - paper, plastics, tins, bottles, biodegradable items - and dispose of each type appropriately.

BONAIRE
Harbour Village Marina office collects laundry daily before 9:30AM and it is returned the next day after 10AM; it is not cheap because the water is desalinated. You can take your laundry to Caribbean Laundry Service near the stadium to do yourself, but it's not much cheaper. There are some garbage bins behind the fuel dock or take your garbage to the dinghy dock and drop it in the bins behind the Harborside Mall.

CURAÇAO
Laundry machines are available at Sarifundy's and Seru Boca Marina for small cost. Garbage bins are behind Sarifundy's and just off the docks at Seru Boca Marina.

ARUBA
We found machines on the 7th floor of the Holiday Inn (south tower) for $1 wash and $1 dry. These are for hotel guests, so act like a hotel guest. Use the garbage bins to keep the waters clean.

COLOMBIA COAST
You will have to do your own laundry. The next machines are in Cartagena. For your garbage, when at sea (not at anchor) you can break your bottles, punch holes in tins so they sink, and toss biodegradable foodstuffs. Store plastics, etcetera, until you see proper bins.

CARTAGENA
There are several friendly ladies at Club Náutico to do your laundry for you: 3000 pesos for wash and 3500 pesos for dry. Club Náutico also has a garbage collection area.

PANAMA
In the San Blas, if you need to collect water, anchor near a village close to the mainland where it usually rains. You must do your own laundry. Some islands have fresh water pools from which you can bucket some water for laundry. Also, you can dinghy up some of the rivers to get fresh water. With regards to garbage, take care of your own; do not give it to the locals, they just dump it in the water. Cruisers organize garbage burns for the paper and dispose of bottles, tins, and foodstuffs at sea away from anchorages. Save plastics for disposal at Colon. In Colon, there are laundry machines and a small garbage collection area at PCYC.

Next month, Part Four: Provisioning and Shoreside Attractions.

Pizazz's updated Cruising Guide for the Coast of Colombia is now available on the Caribbean Compass website www.caribbeancompass.com. Or anyone can write to Pizazz at sy_pizazz@yahoo.com for Lourae and Randy to send it to you; the files are big, so you must have a land-based e-mail address to get all of the information.