Chaguaramas 101
 

by Lynne Markos

Chaguaramas Harbor is bursting at the seams and shrinking daily. Not only have the yachts discovered Trinidad's bounty, the commercial traffic has increased dramatically with the country's heightened oil exploration. Chaguaramas may not be your anchorage of choice. Nonetheless, if you're heading to Trinidad for haul-out, hurricane hiding, or just one more shark 'n bake, then chances are good you'll spend a night or three in the anchorage we love to hate.
The Boaters' Directory of Trinidad & Tobago, a must-have reference available for free at all Trinidad marine centers, depicts the harbor's designated yacht anchorage area on its Chaguaramas Facilities map. This triangular area fronts Peakes and Power Boats to the north, the CrewsInn travel-lift and commercial dock eastward, and the commercial no-man's-land to the west. Without calculating the exact square footage, and considering the many private moorings in the anchorage, I figure it's just about enough space to safely accommodate enough 40-footers for a successful potluck - about 20.
Wait! Don't strike Trinidad off your "gotta see" list - you gotta see it! If you plan to join the crowd and anchor there at the height of hurricane season when choicer spots are taken, then patience and creative anchoring are the order of the day. Trust me, after experiencing shark 'n bake on Maracas Beach or scarlet ibis's sunset flight, you'll agree Trinidad was worth the trip.

The 2002 hurricane season saw yachts spilling far out of the designated anchorage. They reached westward well past Peakes and IMS in the bowels of bustling Commercial Alley. They infringed on the Washing Machine, that bumpy strip fronting Peakes and Powerboats used by small boats heading down de islands and fishing pirogues commuting to work. Yachts anchored out in the deep water to the south were out of the way but still far outside the anchorage borders. Even the yachts snuggled down on YSATT moorings swing outside the marker into the main ship channel fronting the commercial dock beside CrewsInn's travel-lift.

The shallow-water space beyond the western borders of the recognized yacht anchorage is shrinking daily. The facility immediately west of Peakes is currently extending its docks. This is forcing the Washing Machine south, thus further decreasing shallow-water anchorage. Barges are moored bow and stern in this same area southwest of Peakes, effectively decreasing anchoring space as these double-moored barges do not swing with yachts on bow anchors and require wide berths. Many yachts lack enough chain to anchor in the deeper water to the south. Unfortunately, the use of double-moored barges forces more yachts to anchor westward, further into Commercial Alley and in the path of shipping traffic.

We recently spent seven months tirelessly performing the Chaguaramas Shuffle searching for safer-better-closer-shallower-calmer spots for our 52-foot sailboat. Commercial Alley was my personal nightmare. A light sleeper, I was often jolted awake by a rumbling vibration enveloping our boat.
Peering out my bedside portlight I'd find a massive tug creeping stealthily past only meters away, or a colossal supply ship or freighter seemingly bearing down on us. Of course, these night-creeping vessels were operated by professionals and the Chaguaramas Pilot was always on the scene, but their sheer bulk is a horrifying sight in the wee hours to a sleep-muddled brain.

After two weeks of sleepless nights the Pilot boat approached and I thought we were in for it. In his cap and crisp whites the Pilot shared a joke before explaining our yacht was in potential danger because her stern swung too close to the ship thoroughfare. Could we move southwest just a little bit, he asked, as he would "rest easier if we were anchored in a safer place". There was no fine imposed. There was no reprimand or anger toward the many yachts anchored outside boundaries. The Pilot showed only good Trini humor and genuine concern for our safety. We gladly moved where he had indicated; although the spot was still deep in Commercial Alley, my husband was only too pleased to secure his grumpy wife a sound sleep.
If you find yourself forced into Commercial Alley or swinging too close to the main shipping channel, cooperate with the Pilot; he has your safety in mind. Turn on an anchor light at sunset. It is amazing how few boats show anchor lights in Chaguaramas despite the 24-hour commercial and pleasure traffic. The expected arrival of a large vessel is announced on Channel 68. If you plan to leave your boat for the day and are unsure if it poses a risk, dinghy to the west end of the CrewsInn docks and ask the Pilot.

Chaguaramas is notorious for its vicious currents often flanking new and full moons. That's why some old-timers line their hulls with fenders. If it's that time of the month, allow extra swinging room between you and your neighbors to avoid a close encounter.
Sure, Chag's no serene idyllic anchorage, but as long as the marine services are there, the yachts will come, and so, probably, will you. The anchoring alternatives are few. Scotland Bay is serene, yes, but distant. Cruiser-friendly Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) is close, but yachts may pay the price with dragging anchors and a frequent wicked afternoon chop.

Chaguaramas Harbor remains a beautiful, lush Caribbean anchorage, extremely convenient for those who will not or cannot moor dockside. It provides a quick link to marine services and restaurants, and an easy jump-off point for touring Trinidad's unique wonders. Its irritants are manageable and soon overlooked watching tugs nudge a monstrous oil rig alongside the pier, or witnessing Q4000, a self-propelled oil rig capper of titanic proportions, lumber into the bay. Watch the sun splash behind Venezuela, then awaken to birdsong after a tranquil night on the normally glass-slick anchorage and wonder what new thrills Chaguaramas Harbor will offer you today.

Yachties love to complain, but few are forced to drop their hook in Chag. Take it as it is and love it - or leave it.